Midnatt · A Nordnile Journey

Dark Nights

Stargazing in Siwa Oasis, Egypt

Five nights in Egypt's Western Desert, timed to the new moon. A candlelit lodge, a private astronomer, and one of the darkest accessible places in Egypt, on the published light-pollution maps.*

* Source: Falchi et al., World Atlas of Artificial Night Sky Brightness

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Duration
Five nights
Timing
New moon weeks
Guests
Twelve, at most
Sky
Bortle class 1
The sky

The darkest sky in Egypt

Siwa lies at the edge of the Great Sand Sea, three hundred kilometres from the nearest city light. On the Bortle scale, which measures the darkness of the night sky from nine to one, the desert around the oasis has the lowest class there is.

We travel only in the week of the new moon, when the sky is lit exclusively by the stars. In winter, Orion stands at its highest, and beneath it Sirius, the star ancient Egyptians set their calendar by. The Milky Way is not something you search for here. It is the first thing you see.

You do not need a telescope to see the Milky Way in Siwa. You need only to arrive, and look up.
The Milky Way over the ecovillage in Siwa Oasis, photographed from the lodge grounds
The Milky Way, photographed at the lodge
The oasis

Older than its legends

Long before astronomy had a name, Siwa was a place people crossed deserts to reach. Alexander the Great came here in 331 BC to stand before the Oracle of Amun and ask his question. The temple still stands above the palm groves, and the ruined salt-brick town of Shali still rises at the centre of the oasis like something grown rather than built.

By day you will visit the springs, the salt lakes, the gardens, and the quiet streets. By night, you will visit other galaxies.

The turquoise salt lakes of Siwa Oasis against white salt shores and open desert
The salt lakes of Siwa
The lodge

A lodge lit by candles

The village where the lodge is located is built by hand from the oasis's own materials, in the old Siwan way, at the foot of the Red Mountain, facing the White Mountain across a lake, with the dunes of the Great Sand Sea within walking distance. There is no electricity in the rooms. Only candles and oil lamps light up the evening, and when night falls, the lodge gently joins the darkness around it.

Most hotels would call this a limitation. For this journey, it is the whole point. The lodge is the observation instrument, in other words: when you step out of your room and the sky is right there waiting.

The ecovillage after dark, traditional Siwan architecture lit by oil lamps
The village after dark
A room inside the ecovillage, natural Siwan materials lit by candles and oil lamps
A room by candlelight
The journey

Five nights, one sky

Day one

The road west

A private transfer from Cairo, with a considered stop at El Alamein. The long road is part of the journey: the city thins, the desert opens, and by dusk the palms of the oasis appear. Dinner by lanternlight at the lodge.

Day two

The Oracle

Shali fortress and the Temple of the Oracle in the morning light, the salt lakes in the afternoon. After dinner, the first night of sky: no instruments, no lecture. Your astronomer teaches you to see again, with your own eyes.

Day three

The Sand Sea

A quiet day among the springs and gardens. At sunset, 4x4s carry the group to the edge of the Great Sand Sea for dinner by the fire and the full horizon-to-horizon sky.

Day four

Deeper

A free morning. In the evening, the telescope comes out: the moons of Jupiter, the Orion Nebula, star clusters older than the Sahara. Your astronomer traces the line from Sirius to the calendar of ancient Egypt.

Day five

Stillness

Sunset at Fatnas island, over the lake. The final night carries no programme at all: blankets, a fire, and the sky. Some guests talk quietly. Most do not.

Day six

Return

A slow breakfast, then the road back to Cairo, arriving by evening.

The details

What the journey carries

Included

  • Five nights at our ecovillage, with all meals
  • Private transfers from and to Cairo
  • A dedicated astronomer, with the group throughout
  • All desert excursions, permits and park fees
  • Telescope session each night

Not included

  • International flights to Cairo
  • Nights in Cairo before or after the journey
  • Travel insurance
  • Gratuities
As reviewed on Tripadvisor
Excellent

Across 98 reviews of our journeys, from the Nile to the Western Desert.

Read the reviews
Winter 2026 – 27

Departures, set by the moon

Every departure is placed in the week of the new moon, when the nights are at their darkest. The lunar calendar decides the dates. We simply follow it.

I11 – 16 December 2026The Geminid meteor shower
II6 – 11 January 2027New moon 7 January
III5 – 10 February 2027New moon 6 February
IV5 – 10 March 2027New moon 8 March
Per person, sharing$4,400≈ €4,050 · indicative
Single room supplement$1,200≈ €1,100 · indicative

Twelve guests at most, and every departure runs, whether two travel or twelve. Rates are quoted in US dollars; euro figures follow the day's exchange. A place is held with a 1250 USD deposit.

PPrivate charter flights from Cairo to Siwa can be arranged upon request for guests who prefer to avoid the road journey.

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Questions

Asked, and answered

How dark is the sky, honestly?
The desert around Siwa measures Bortle class 1, the darkest rating the scale has. In practical terms: the Milky Way casts a visible glow, thousands of stars are plain to the naked eye, and on a clear new-moon night the zodiacal light itself can be seen. Every departure is timed so the moon is absent from the evening sky.
Do I need to know anything about astronomy?
No. The journey is designed for the curious, not the equipped. An astronomer travels with the group throughout, the first night uses nothing but your own eyes, and the telescope and binoculars are provided. If you already know the sky well, the darkness alone will justify the trip.
What is the drive from Cairo like?
Long, and honestly so: around nine hours west, broken by a stop at El Alamein and an unhurried lunch. We treat the road as the beginning of the journey rather than an obstacle to it. The vehicles are modern, private, and driven by people who know every kilometre.
How cold are the desert nights in winter?
Days are mild, often around 20c (68 F), but after dark the desert can be cold. Fires, blankets and hot drinks are part of every observation night.
The lodge really has no electricity?
Really. The rooms are lit by candles and oil lamps, and there is no wifi and no television in them. Phones and cameras can be charged at the village's charging point.
Is the journey suitable for solo travellers?
Very. Roughly a third of our guests travel alone. Single rooms are available with a supplement, the group never exceeds twelve, and the table each evening is shared.
How demanding is it physically?
Gentle. The days involve short walks on sand and uneven ground, and nothing more strenuous. Observation nights are spent seated or standing at leisure. If you can manage a slow walk on a beach, you can manage this journey.
Can I fly to Siwa?
Yes. Private charter flights from Cairo to Siwa can be arranged upon request for guests who prefer to avoid the nine-hour road transfer. Please contact us for details and pricing.
Midnatt
The sky, with reverence.
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